Men’s fashion week Paris: Julius S/S12

I’m back from Paris, with a little detour to the Finnish Lapland to spend the remainder of my summer holidays escaping the city life. Now, well rested after the craziness of the city of love and lights, I start my reports from the Paris men’s fashion week by presenting first the Julius S/S2012 collection. Though this collection, simply named [edge;], is a bit of a repeat of what Julius does best (fitted leather jackets, cargo pants, elongated shapes, and sturdy footwear), there were a few details that made my heart skip a beat when the models entered the runway; First and foremost, adding a few femmes to stir things up was a clever choice from the designer Tatsuro Horikawa’s team, making me fall in love with the unisex approach of the season (which was inspired by the architecture of Zaha Hadid by the way). Second thing that caught my interest was the rather dark color scheme, with only touches of blue, white and gray. Whilst this collection might have not been the strongest one from Julius, it is indeed refreshing that there is no need to go all “tutti frutti” just because it’s summer. For me, the aforementioned with a special emphasis on that little strappy leather topoozing sex appeal, really made this collection. You can probably already guess that it, and some other items will be on my spring/summer shopping list – if and when they become available. Overall, good job team Horikawa!

See the full collection below.

Pictures by the author.

In the showroom: OBSCUR A/W 11/12

During the Paris men’s fashion week I had the chance to visit the showroom of OBSCUR, a Swedish label run by my good friend Richard Söderberg. His latest collection, inspired by the cold winters of Scandinavia, was presented in a beautiful old Paris building with gothic romantic surroundings, coherently complementing the mood of the collection. OBSCUR’s autumn/winter 2011/2012 consists of tailored winter coats, blazers with attached gloves, structured pants, distressed leather boots, and soft leathers which the label is most known for. Many beautiful pieces which I would not mind owning myself.

Paris men’s fashion week: Boris Bidjan Saberi F/W 11/12

Last but definitely not least, I am offering one more Paris fashion week F/w 11/12 treat from one of my favorite designers, Boris Bidjan Saberi. Even though this is a men’s wear line, the sizing of the garments drops all the way down to XS, providing us women a chance to explore the masculine side.

Boris’s latest collection A/W 11/12, was presented in what seemed like an old gymnasium with models appearing behind massive bleachers to present Saberi’s work. To emphasize the designers influences and sub-cultural background, hip hop beats pulsated the venue as skateboarders were performing tricks over a launch box in this dimly lit venue. The pieces had aesthetics common to Boris: Drape, texture, leather manipulation, and heavy detailing. Jus like in the S/S11 looks, the new collection featured experimentation with transparent leather, but this time introducing blood red transparency for the winter. A strong cohesive collection once again from Boris Bidjan Saberi, and I can definitely see myself purchasing a few pieces when it becomes available.

Pictures via Boris Bidjan Saberi

Text by Peter K.

Paris men’s fashion week: Julius F/W 2011/2012

Julius is one of those labels which I personally admire for the beautiful craftsmanship, innovative cuts and extraordinary durability; There aren’t too many designer houses who would test their garments as carefully in practice as the team lead by Julius’ head designer Tatsuro Horikawa. His lastest collection for fall/winter 11/12, simply named Halo;, was not a disappointment either: Inspired by the contrast of the violent chaos of New York and Hong Kong and a peaceful atmosphere of a French monastery, you could definitely see the strong urban and religious references present in Horikawa’s designs. “Halo;” featured cleverly cut leathers, knits, tailored coats, draped tops, and thick coats in soft browns, black, luminous white and even gold – creating a cohesive and harmonious collection for next winter.