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Men’s business

During the Paris men’s fashion week I had the chance to visit the showroom of OBSCUR, a Swedish label run by my good friend Richard Söderberg. His latest collection, inspired by the cold winters of Scandinavia, was present in a beautiful old Paris building with gothic romantic surroundings, coherently complementing the mood of the collection. OBSCUR’s autumn/winter 2011/2012 consists of tailored winter coats, blazers with attached gloves, structured pants, worn out looking boots, and soft leathers which the label is most known for. A lot of beautiful pieces which I would not mind owning myself.

On our last day in Paris we visited the showroom again and after snapping a few pictures, I decided to make a little video to get more into the vibe of this intriguing presentation. Here are the results of that day. A big hand goes to Peter for editing the footage.










Last but definitely not least, I am offering you one more Paris fashion week F/w 11/12 post regarding one of my favorite designers, Boris Bidjan Saberi. Even though this is a men’s wear line, I am a huge fan of BBS and grateful that the sizing drops down to XS, providing us women a chance to explore the masculine side.

Boris’s latest collection A/W 11/12 was presented in what seemed like a gymnasium, as the models had to make their way down from behind the top of bleachers to present Saberi’s work. To emphasize on the designers influence and sub-cultural background, hip hop beats pulsated the venue as skateboarders were seen through the center performing tricks off what seemed to be a launch box in a dimly lit venue. The pieces itself had aesthetics common to Boris: Drape, texture, leather manipulation, and heavy detailing. It seemed as the designer continued his experiment with transparent leather as he did with his SS11 collection, but this time introducing blood red transparency for A/W 11/12. A strong cohesive collection once again from Boris Bidjan Saberi, and I can definitely see myself purchasing a few pieces when it becomes available.

Pictures via Boris Bidjan Saberi

Text by Peter K.

Julius is one of those labels which I personally admire for the beautiful craftsmanship, innovative cuts and extraordinary durability; There aren’t too many designer houses who would test their garments as carefully in practice as the team lead by Julius’ head designer Tatsuro Horikawa. His lastest collection, fall/winter 2011/12 simply named Halo;, was not a disappointment either: Inspired by the contrast of the violent chaos of New York and Hong Kong and a peaceful atmosphere of a French monastery, you could definitely see the strong urban and religious references present in Horikawa’s designs. “Halo;” featured cleverly cut leathers, knits, tailored coats, draped tops, and (exceptional for Julius) thick coats in soft browns, black, luminous white and even gold – creating a cohesive and harmonious collection for next winter.

I had the pleasure and privilege to follow the Julius show in Paris two weeks ago, and here is what our camera captured from the presentation.

Click the presentation to view images in full screen.
Pictures by Peter.

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