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Fashion week

I’m back from Paris, with a little detour to the Finnish Lapland to spend the remainder of my summer holidays escaping the city life. Now, well rested after the craziness of the city of love and lights, I start my reports from the Paris men’s fashion week by presenting first the Julius S/S2012 collection. Though this collection, simply named [edge;], is a bit of a repeat of what Julius does best (fitted leather jackets, cargo pants, elongated shapes, and sturdy footwear), there were a few details that made my heart skip a beat when the models entered the runway; First and foremost, adding a few femmes to stir things up was a clever choice from the designer Tatsuro Horikawa’s team, making me fall in love with the unisex approach of the season (which was inspired by the architecture of Zaha Hadid by the way). Second thing that caught my interest was the rather dark color scheme, with only touches of blue, white and gray. Whilst this collection might have not been the strongest one from Julius, it is indeed refreshing that there is no need to go all “tutti frutti” just because it’s summer. For me, the aforementioned with a special emphasis on that little strappy leather topoozing sex appeal, really made this collection. You can probably already guess that it, and some other items will be on my spring/summer shopping list – if and when they become available. Overall, good job team Horikawa!

See the full collection below.

Pictures by the author.

During the Paris men’s fashion week I had the chance to visit the showroom of OBSCUR, a Swedish label run by my good friend Richard Söderberg. His latest collection, inspired by the cold winters of Scandinavia, was present in a beautiful old Paris building with gothic romantic surroundings, coherently complementing the mood of the collection. OBSCUR’s autumn/winter 2011/2012 consists of tailored winter coats, blazers with attached gloves, structured pants, worn out looking boots, and soft leathers which the label is most known for. A lot of beautiful pieces which I would not mind owning myself.

On our last day in Paris we visited the showroom again and after snapping a few pictures, I decided to make a little video to get more into the vibe of this intriguing presentation. Here are the results of that day. A big hand goes to Peter for editing the footage.










Last but definitely not least, I am offering you one more Paris fashion week F/w 11/12 post regarding one of my favorite designers, Boris Bidjan Saberi. Even though this is a men’s wear line, I am a huge fan of BBS and grateful that the sizing drops down to XS, providing us women a chance to explore the masculine side.

Boris’s latest collection A/W 11/12 was presented in what seemed like a gymnasium, as the models had to make their way down from behind the top of bleachers to present Saberi’s work. To emphasize on the designers influence and sub-cultural background, hip hop beats pulsated the venue as skateboarders were seen through the center performing tricks off what seemed to be a launch box in a dimly lit venue. The pieces itself had aesthetics common to Boris: Drape, texture, leather manipulation, and heavy detailing. It seemed as the designer continued his experiment with transparent leather as he did with his SS11 collection, but this time introducing blood red transparency for A/W 11/12. A strong cohesive collection once again from Boris Bidjan Saberi, and I can definitely see myself purchasing a few pieces when it becomes available.

Pictures via Boris Bidjan Saberi

Text by Peter K.

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